Fluorescent to LED Upgrade: A Complete Guide
Upgrading from fluorescent to LED lighting is one of the most impactful improvements a property owner can make—both in terms of energy savings and lighting quality. Whether you’re managing a commercial space, refurbishing a workshop, or simply looking to modernise your home, LED lights offer a future-proof solution that delivers efficiency, cost-effectiveness, and environmental responsibility.
At AuraLED, we help businesses across the UK make the switch with ease, supplying premium LED lights and expert guidance to ensure every upgrade is safe, compliant, and optimised for long-term savings.
Why Upgrade from Fluorescent to LED?
Switching from fluorescent tubes to LED lighting presents several advantages that go far beyond reducing electricity bills.
Significant Energy Savings
LED technology consumes up to 60% less energy than traditional fluorescent tubes. This translates to measurable savings on energy bills, especially in commercial or industrial settings where lighting may run for long periods.
Longer Lifespan
Fluorescent tubes typically last between 8,000–15,000 hours, while LEDs offer lifespans of up to 50,000 hours. That means far fewer replacements, reduced maintenance costs, and less disruption over time.
Instant Start-Up and No Flickering
Fluorescents are known for their flickering and delay when switched on. LEDs switch on instantly with full brightness and no warm-up time—ideal for high-traffic areas like offices, corridors, and workshops.
Environmentally Friendly
Unlike fluorescent tubes, LEDs contain no mercury or hazardous materials, and their lower energy use means fewer carbon emissions. They’re also fully recyclable, making them a sustainable choice.
Better Light Quality
With improved Colour Rendering Index (CRI) and more consistent brightness, LED lights enhance visual clarity and colour perception—especially useful in workspaces and retail environments.
Understanding LED Tube Types
Before you upgrade, it’s essential to understand the different types of LED tubes available and how they relate to your existing fittings.
T8, T5, and T12 Tubes
These codes refer to the diameter and shape of the tube. Most UK installations use:
- T8 (1-inch diameter) – the most common type
- T5 (5/8-inch diameter) – typically newer, high-efficiency systems
- T12 (1.5-inch diameter) – older, now largely phased out
It’s important to match the size and base type when replacing a fluorescent tube with an LED equivalent.
Ballast Considerations
Ballasts regulate current in fluorescent fittings. When switching to LED, they play a crucial role in compatibility. There are four main categories of LED tubes:
1. Ballast Bypass (Direct Wire) Tubes
These require the existing ballast to be removed. The LED is wired directly to mains power, making this option ideal for long-term energy efficiency and reduced component failure.
- Pros: Lower cost per unit, fewer failure points, highest energy savings.
- Cons: Requires rewiring and safety checks—professional installation recommended.
2. Ballast-Compatible (Plug & Play) Tubes
These are designed to work with existing electronic ballasts and are easiest to install.
- Pros: No rewiring; simply swap the tubes.
- Cons: Slightly lower efficiency, reliant on ballast lifespan.
3. Hybrid Tubes
These offer the flexibility to run with a ballast or bypass it if needed.
- Pros: Adaptable for future maintenance, ideal for facilities with mixed systems.
- Cons: Higher cost, but it can be slightly less efficient.
4. Universal Ballast-Compatible Tubes
The most advanced option, compatible with both magnetic and electronic ballasts.
- Pros: No rewiring; works with nearly all setups.
- Cons: Highest cost, some maintenance risks with older ballasts.
How to Upgrade from Fluorescent to LED: Step-by-Step
Upgrading from fluorescent to LED lighting can be straightforward, but the process varies depending on your fixture and the type of LED tube you’re using. Below is a detailed guide to help you carry out the upgrade safely and correctly. Always consult an electrician if you’re unsure or working in a commercial setting.
Step 1: Switch Off the Power
Before doing anything else, isolate the power supply at the mains. Never attempt to replace or rewire lighting while it’s connected to electricity, even if the light switch is off. Use a voltage tester if you’re unsure whether power is still present.
Step 2: Remove the Fluorescent Tube and Starter
Once power is off:
- Rotate the fluorescent tube 90 degrees and gently slide it out of the tombstone lamp holders at each end.
- If the fixture uses a starter (a cylindrical component), remove this as well—it is not required for LED tubes.
Take care to avoid breakage, as fluorescent tubes contain a small amount of mercury vapour and should be disposed of in accordance with local regulations.
Step 3: Determine Your LED Tube Type
LED tubes come in several types, and installation methods differ:
- Plug-and-play (ballast-compatible): These can be fitted directly into the existing fixture without rewiring, provided the ballast is compatible.
- Ballast-bypass (direct wire): These require the removal of the ballast and direct wiring to mains voltage.
- Hybrid: It can initially work with a ballast but also support direct wiring if the ballast fails.
- Universal: Compatible with both magnetic and electronic ballasts but generally more costly.
Read the specifications on your LED tube or packaging to confirm which method is required.
Step 4: Remove or Retain the Ballast
A. If You Are Using Plug-and-Play Tubes:
- Leave the electronic ballast in place, provided it’s compatible with the LED tube model.
- Simply skip to Step 5.
B. If You Are Using Ballast-Bypass Tubes:
- Disconnect and remove the existing ballast:
- Cut or disconnect the live (brown/black/grey) and neutral (blue) wires leading to the ballast.
- Remove the ballast from the fitting.
- Inspect the tombstones (lamp holders):
- For single-ended tubes, ensure the powered end connects only to non-shunted tombstones.
- For double-ended tubes, power can be supplied to both ends, so most standard tombstones will work.
If in doubt, consult a professional electrician to ensure the fixture complies with wiring regulations.
Step 5: Wire the Fixture for LED Operation
This step is only required for ballast-bypass installations:
A. Single-Ended Tubes
- Connect the live and neutral wires to the same end of the fixture—this is the powered end.
- The opposite end remains non-powered but still supports the tube physically.
- Ensure you are using non-shunted tombstones, which have separate terminals for each pin.
B. Double-Ended Tubes
- Connect the live wire to the tombstone at one end and the neutral wire to the tombstone at the opposite end.
- Standard tombstones (shunted or non-shunted) are usually fine for this configuration.
Use terminal blocks or WAGO connectors for secure joins, and ensure all connections are safely enclosed.
Step 6: Install the LED Tube
Once the wiring is confirmed:
- Align the LED tube’s pins with the tombstone slots.
- Insert the tube and rotate it 90 degrees until it locks in place.
- For single-ended tubes, be sure the powered end is aligned with the powered socket—incorrect orientation may damage the tube or prevent it from lighting.
Some LED tubes have clear labels indicating which end is powered. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely.
Step 7: Restore Power and Test the Light
Switch the mains power back on and test the fixture. The LED tube should:
- Light up instantly (no flickering or warm-up).
- Operate silently (no humming or buzzing).
- Provide bright, even illumination.
If the tube doesn’t light or flickers, double-check your wiring and confirm the tube type matches the installation method.
Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting
While upgrading from fluorescent to LED lighting is relatively straightforward, there are several common pitfalls that can lead to poor performance, safety risks, or unnecessary costs. Below is a guide to help you avoid these issues and ensure a successful installation.
1. Using the Wrong Type of LED Tube
One of the most frequent problems we see is the mismatch between the LED tube and the existing fixture.
- Plug-and-play tubes won’t work with magnetic ballasts or incompatible electronic ballasts.
- Ballast-bypass tubes will fail if the ballast is still in the circuit.
- Hybrid tubes may initially function but are prone to failure if the ballast is deteriorating.
Solution: Always check whether your existing fixture has a magnetic or electronic ballast. Refer to the LED tube’s specification sheet to ensure compatibility before purchasing.
2. Incorrect Wiring During Ballast Bypass
When bypassing the ballast, mistakes in wiring are not only common—they can be hazardous.
- Reversing the live and neutral on single-ended tubes can damage the tube or render it inoperable.
- Failing to isolate unused wires after ballast removal may cause short circuits.
- Powering both ends of a single-ended tube is a major safety risk.
Solution: Carefully follow the wiring diagram supplied with your LED tube. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician to ensure the installation is safe and compliant with wiring regulations.
3. Installing the Tube the Wrong Way Around
This issue occurs almost exclusively with single-ended tubes, which only accept power at one end.
- If the powered end is inserted into the passive lamp holder, the tube will not light.
- In some cases, reversing the tube may damage the internal driver.
Solution: Identify the powered end of the tube—this is usually marked with a label or symbol. Install it into the lamp holder connected to the live and neutral wires.
4. Using the Wrong Lampholders (Tombstones)
The type of lamp holder used is particularly important in ballast-bypass installations:
- Single-ended tubes require non-shunted lamp holders, which keep the live and neutral terminals separate.
- Shunted lamp holders, commonly found in T8 fittings, can cause wiring conflicts or shorts when used incorrectly.
Solution: Determine the type of lamp holder you have. If replacing with single-ended tubes, ensure you install or retrofit non-shunted lamp holders on the powered end. These are widely available and inexpensive to replace.
5. Using Low-Quality or Uncertified Products
Not all LED tubes are created equal. Many cheap imports, particularly from unverified online sellers, are:
- Poorly constructed
- Lacking proper polarity markings
- Without CE certification or UKCA compliance
- Prone to early failure or even short circuits
Solution: Purchase LED tubes from a reputable UK supplier. At AuraLED, all our tubes are tested, certified, and clearly labelled for correct installation. We also offer full technical support to ensure safe use.
6. LED Tube Flickering or Buzzing
LEDs are not supposed to flicker or emit noise. If they do, it typically points to one of the following:
- Old or incompatible ballast (in plug-and-play setups)
- Faulty wiring after a ballast bypass
- Defective LED driver within the tube
- Voltage fluctuations or poor connections
Solution:
- If using plug-and-play tubes, try replacing the ballast or switching to a bypass model.
- Double-check all wiring points for secure and correct connections.
- If issues persist, replace the LED tube with a new, certified model.
7. Overheating or Burnout
LED tubes run cooler than fluorescents, but incorrect installation can still lead to excessive heat, especially if:
- The fixture is enclosed with poor airflow
- The ballast is left connected in a bypass installation
- The tube is mismatched for the wattage or voltage supplied
Solution:
- Use tubes rated for enclosed fixtures where necessary.
- Always remove the ballast when using ballast-bypass tubes.
- Match your tube’s input requirements to the circuit voltage.
8. Lighting Failures After Installation
If your LED tube doesn’t switch on at all after installation, consider the following checklist:
- Is power restored to the fitting?
- Has the tube been inserted the correct way round (for single-ended)?
- Are the wires firmly secured to the correct terminals?
- Is the tube compatible with the existing ballast (for plug-and-play)?
- Could the tube be defective?
Solution: Test the fixture with a working LED tube you know is functional, and confirm the wiring using a continuity tester or voltage probe.
By avoiding these common pitfalls and following best practice installation procedures, you can ensure your LED upgrade is not only safe but optimised for long-term performance. As always, our team at AuraLED is here to help—whether you need technical support, product recommendations, or guidance on wiring and compatibility.
RetroMag: Retrofit Beyond Tubes
If the above all seems a bit complicated, and you’d like to move away from both fluorescent and LED tubs, our new RetroMag66A retrofit gear tray offers a simple and effective upgrade path. Designed to fit standard 600 x 600 luminaires, it uses a magnetic base for quick installation and features four Tridonic LED boards with adjustable power settings. It provides bright, efficient light (up to 188 lumens per watt), with two colour temperature options, 3000K and 4000K. The tray is built to last up to 72,000 hours and can include smart DALI drivers or emergency kits if needed. It’s a more reliable and maintenance-friendly solution than LED tubes, which may involve wiring changes and heat issues. Backed by a five-year warranty, the RetroMag66A is ideal for both linear and panel light retrofits.
Final Thoughts
Upgrading from fluorescent to LED lighting is one of the smartest moves you can make—cutting costs, improving light quality, and reducing environmental impact. With options to suit every fitting and a relatively simple installation process, there’s never been a better time to make the switch.
At AuraLED, we’re proud to support UK homes and businesses in achieving energy-efficient lighting solutions that last. Whether you’re DIY-savvy or prefer professional installation, we’re here to ensure your fluorescent to LED upgrade is seamless, safe, and successful.
Need help choosing the right tube? Get in touch with our team for free technical guidance and product recommendations tailored to your setup.